One of America’s Rarest Birds Lives on Alaska’s Loneliest Island. Scientists Are Finally Exploring Their Private Kingdom

Maria J. Danford

This article appeared in the March/April 2021 problem of Discover as “The Land of Living Snowflakes.” Aid our science journalism by getting a subscriber. St. Matthew Island sits by itself in the frigid emptiness of the Bering Sea, like a good, gnarled stone thrown significantly from Alaska’s western coast. On these shores, the rhythmic […]

This article appeared in the March/April 2021 problem of Discover as “The Land of Living Snowflakes.” Aid our science journalism by getting a subscriber.


St. Matthew Island sits by itself in the frigid emptiness of the Bering Sea, like a good, gnarled stone thrown significantly from Alaska’s western coast. On these shores, the rhythmic lapping of brisk waves and a medley of tinny, chime-like tunes are the only seems mounting over the island’s foggy, treeless crown.

The tunes occur from male McKay’s buntings — brilliantly white birds that drift to the earth in swish, sweeping arcs. The birds’ bewitching mating ritual and nesting occurs only right here, in a single of the most inaccessible destinations on the planet. Cherished minimal is recognized about their world. Scientists are aiming to alter that.

St. Matthew - Mar/April

The bewitching birds nest only right here in the secluded island of St. Matthew, a single of the most inaccessible destinations on the planet.
(Credit: Rachel Richardson)

Secluded Snowflakes

The ornithological community’s information of McKay’s buntings — the only fowl with a selection totally contained in Alaska’s borders — dates back to the birds’ discovery in 1879. Naturalist and creator John Burroughs, whilst on an 1899 expedition to Alaska, was smitten with the male buntings’ displays more than the tundra of Corridor Island, a modest satellite off St. Matthew’s Glory of Russia Cape.

“Drifting more than this marvelous carpet,” he wrote in 1901, “or dropping down upon it from the air over was the hyperborean snowbird, white as a snowflake and with a tune of good sweetness and electrical power.”

Named after naturalist Charles McKay, who very first collected specimens of the fowl, these buntings are so evocative of winter flurries that, for several years, they have been recognized as “McKay’s snowflakes.”

“I essentially like the original title improved,” says Steven Matsuoka, a wildlife biologist with the U.S. Geological Survey’s Alaska Science Center, who scientific tests the birds nowadays.

Considering that their official description in the eighties, these not often witnessed birds have eluded in-depth research. At 32 miles prolonged, St. Matthew Island is uninhabited, its undulating sea of chilly-stunted grass and moss only damaged by the ghostly tines of reindeer antlers affixed to bleached skulls. The introduced reindeer briefly crowded the island many years ago but have since died out, leaving ceaseless wind as the most repeated guest on the island.

“Alaska’s famous for remaining a distant wilderness location, and even amongst Alaskans, St. Matthew is held in regard for the reason that it is the toughest put to get to,” says Matsuoka. “There’s no frequent air company it is 250 kilometers [more than a hundred and fifty miles] from any settlements.”

The island wilderness is so isolated that two many years handed amongst expeditions to the McKay’s buntings’ breeding grounds. In the early 1980s, scientists frequented St. Matthew to learn about the birds’ nesting behavior. Then, in 2003, one more team of researchers returned to estimate the birds’ figures. Outcomes from these surveys suggested that there may perhaps be more than thirty,000 McKay’s buntings — 10 times more than earlier approximated, according to Matsuoka. In spite of this, McKay’s buntings could be the rarest fowl in North America, says Rachel Richardson, one more wildlife biologist with the Alaska Science Center.

The birds are possibly susceptible, as well, given that they rely on these kinds of a modest island location for breeding. Analyzing attainable threats — like invasive species and local weather alter — on this island is paramount for safeguarding these dwelling snowflakes.

Bering Sea Sure

In the summer time of 2018, one more group of scientists — Richardson amongst them — returned to the breeding grounds, expending 5 months on St. Matthew studying the birds’ nesting behavior and prospective conservation threats.

“Getting out to the islands is seriously no modest feat,” says Richardson.

The group experienced to access the buntings’ haven from an currently significantly-flung locale: St. Paul, part of the desolate, volcanic Pribilof Islands, which are a 3- to 4-hour plane journey from Anchorage. From there, Richardson and her colleagues boarded the R/V Tiĝlax (pronounced TEKH-la), a U.S. Fish and Wildlife Company investigation vessel. Right after 28 hours of non-stop voyaging more than whipping, 12-foot seas, the wind-carved undulations of St. Matthew and Corridor Islands came into check out.

“That’s a rather unbelievable matter to witness,” Richardson says. “Volcanic islands just pop up on the horizon.”

On St. Matthew, an uninhabited wildlife refuge, no buildings split the rolling expanse of reduced grasses and sedges. The group designed camp with a series of weather conditions-resistant tents, outfitted with kerosene heaters for heat and propane stoves for cooking. They sheltered on the sub-Arctic tundra, enduring rain, thick fog and wind.

Camp - MARCH/APRIL

Even in summer time, the Bering Sea (over suitable) can convey chilly wind and rain, so shelter is critical.
(Credit: Rachel Richardson)

What seemed harsh and empty for the scientists turned out to be lavish for Bering Sea wildlife. They discovered spotted seals sprawled out in the shadow of towering sea cliffs, cacophonous seabird colonies and prowling Arctic and pink foxes. But no creature was more ample than the mouselike singing voles, darting by rocky fields of talus — jumbles of rock fragments damaged off the surrounding cliffs.

The small rodents pierced the air with alarm phone calls so usually that it “almost feels like you have tinnitus walking around the island,” says Matsuoka.

These rock fields of the island are also the buntings’ domain. There, over the uneven terrain, the scientists watched the males complete.

“It’s really attractive,” says Richardson. The males flit upwards, locking their wings out flat and floating back down, singing all the whilst. “And they’ll do that more than and more than and more than once again, and each time they land, they ordinarily land in the identical location.”

In the 7 days right before the group settled on the island, they worked from the investigation vessel, using a skiff to diverse stretches of craggy coast, walking throughout the breadth of St. Matthew, spotting the buntings and recording their destinations with GPS to make a map of their habitats. Fortunately, the white birds’ stark distinction towards the brown and environmentally friendly tundra designed them effortless to detect and depend.

Red Foxes - March/April

Together with Arctic foxes and singing voles, pink foxes are amongst the only land-dwelling mammals on the
island.
(Credit: Rachel Richardson)

No Rubble Like Property

Beyond the headcount, more facts was waiting around beneath the team’s boots — in small nests filling crevices amongst the huge boulders. McKay’s buntings make fantastic use of their austere surroundings, turning a forbidding tract of boulders into a nursery. To get a peek at these nicely-concealed sanctuaries devoid of damaging them, Richardson and her colleagues obtained creative.

They utilised borescope cameras — small LED cameras situated on the suggestion of prolonged, adaptable hoses, normally utilised in plumbing to see in tight, winding destinations. Right after seeing a bunting dive into the talus at a distinct spot, the scientists would feed the borescope into the rubble labyrinth to gentle up and check out the nests. The group counted eggs and tracked the advancement of hatchlings devoid of transferring a solitary rock or touching any birds.

Months of peering into St. Matthew’s talus fields gave the scientists new facts on nest survival prices and breeding timing, which they in contrast with past surveys.

Quite couple of of the nests failed in 2018 in contrast to 2003 and the 1980s reports predators only devoured a modest portion of the hatchlings. This indicates that the island’s pink foxes — believed to have colonized the island about 20 several years ago — have not been hurting the birds’ figures. Richardson says that the foxes can certainly dig and shift some boulders to access nests, but nests deeper in the crevices may perhaps have an benefit — a little something the group would like to investigate in the upcoming.

Curiously, the buntings appear to be to be nesting previously and previously in the spring. In the 1980s, the median day that the birds laid their very first egg was June 27. In 2018, that experienced shifted months previously, to June 5. Warming of the Bering Sea may perhaps be to blame.

“Climate would be a single of the issues that you would suspect,” Matsuoka says. He adds that the nesting habitat has apparently adjusted as well, with earlier records displaying buntings nesting on the seashore and in driftwood logs, which was not the situation all through new visits. This may perhaps be for the reason that substantially more upland habitat is offered now many thanks to previously snowmelt.

Drifting Forward

When the group briefly returned to the island in summer time 2019 to end surveys, they observed some buntings have been even now nesting as late as August — a time period generally considered submit-breeding time for Alaskan songbirds. Matsuoka says these birds are either re-nesting after an previously failure or getting a 2nd nest in the identical time. The latter circumstance would be weird.

“That’s fairly typical in temperate and tropical methods,” he says. “It’s really uncommon in northern areas.”

Likely forward, the group hopes to make the bunting surveys significantly more frequent, to improved capture the population’s trajectory, and to figure out what the birds do in winter — other than sporadically transform up alongside Alaska’s sparsely inhabited western coastline. If the buntings are declining, filling in details about their once-a-year existence cycle could confirm important.

Gathering more recent data on the buntings’ status, says Richardson, tells scientists more than just how the birds are faring. “It’s significant to type of get a deal with on what’s likely on with [the buntings] and seriously comprehend what’s going on in the Bering Sea location as it is remaining confronted with all of these rapid [local weather] adjustments,” she says.

It would be appropriate, after all, for the herald of a sweltering sea to be a dwelling snowflake.


Jake Buehler is a science writer and journalist dependent on Washington’s Olympic Peninsula, the place he reports on the wild, weird and unsung branches of the tree of existence.

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